-- Aviation Connectivity - Cabin Systems - Avionics - Certification --

 

 

 

 GENERATORS - INVERTERS

 

A generator, sometimes called a “contractor” generator or an “open frame” generator is a large, generator that is designed for use
with power tools, lights, and other construction equipment, and is typically seen as a backup for residential use and commercial power.

They provide high power for low price, and therefore low cost-per-watt.
They are also extremely loud, typically producing noise levels equivalent to a lawn mower. Not something you want running in a campground!


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If you’re out boondocking in the middle of nowhere, and you don’t mind the noise, But also consider they don’t produce clean
AC power that electronics are sensitive to.

An inverter generator is a better choice  and they do not directly generate AC power. Rather, the engine spins a generator that produces 12-volt DC power,
and then  uses a pure sine wave inverter for AC power conversion.
This allows the generator to be lighter, smaller, quieter, and more fuel efficient.
Many inverter generators are so quiet you can hold a conversation right next to them!

Additionally, they produce clean  AC power that can run anything that would normally run on AC power,  as long as it is below the
generator’s power output. They are typically more expensive than a “contractor” generator, but may be worth it if you plan on using it frequently.

How big of a generator you need:

Let’s take a look at the AVERAGE power draws for appliances.
Note these are only typical averages,

• Microwave: 1300–1500W
• Television: 75–100W
• Hair Dryer: 1000–1500W, depending on heat/fan setting
• Electric Heater: 1500W on high
• Laptop Computer: ~150W
• Air Conditioner: 1500W running, can be double or triple that momentarily on compressor startup
• Converter/on-board battery charger: 450W
• Smartphone/Tablet Charger: 10–20W
• Oscillating Fan: 75W


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I would not consider a generator under 2000 watts for most RV uses. A 2000 watt generator will allow you to run the microwave,
recharge your batteries, and run other devices, but not all at the same time.

Anything under 1500W will not allow you to run some of the higher-drain devices in your RV.
If you want to run your air conditioner, you will need a generator that produces at least 3000 starting watts, and 2600–2800 running watts,
for a standard 13,500 BTU RV A/C.
If you have two air conditioners on your RV, you will need double this wattage, so a 6000 starting watt generator would be a minimum.
It is difficult to find inverter generators in this power class, but they do exist, and are very expensive.


 


 

 

TYPICAL GENERATOR

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RV WITH ONBOARD GENERATOR

RV's with internal  generator  incorporate  automatic power  switching when the  generator is  started.  This is  done  with the  internal Transfer  Switch.  RV  power is originating  from  the  generator and the  shore power line is open circuit. ( no  voltage  wont be present at the  end  of your  power cable ) For  some  RV's  when  shore  power is back it  will automaticaly  switch back to  shore and disconnect  from  the  generator.




 

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 GROUNDING:

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RV Grounding is a subject and a science on its own ! you may ask the question :

“should I ground my RV if I use a generator”

and you will get tons of conflicting answers.


When using the power cable to the RV Park panel you are grounded to the 

RV Park grid which is the correct way!.


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DON’T EVER remove any grounding pins on those power cables !

With incorrect wiring, or lifted ground you may end-up with voltage potential on your RV frame ! (Hotskin)  and get electrocuted !...

I was a Sound Engineer, live concerts Sound Mixer many years ago and improper grounding generates ground loops hum
in the audio and can kill the entire show .
After this experience I became recording Studio designer (danaudio studio design)  and grounding is the
MOST IMPORTANT aspect and the least understood !
This is where I applied the Isolated and star ground single point techniques.


Using a Generator you are isolated (solo) from the RV Park grid, your RV ground is on the self generator ground (chassis) .
Also Neutral-Ground bonding should be connected within the generator. Most generator do have this bonding.
This is no problem if you power ONLY your own RV, and you don’t need any ground rod to be installed.

NOTE:
With a generator, remember you are on the self generator chassis ground and you
are NOT on the same ground potential as the RV Park grid.
ALSO  NEVER  BOND  NEUTRAL  TO YOUR  RV  CHASSIS,
this is  done  at only  one point and is at the main RV Park panel.
(the  RV chassis  shall never carry  current)

See Articles and videos   from Mike Sokol on   the resources page for more info.