12V/24V DC Wiring & distribution:

 The following is only an introduction to good wiring practice:

An RV or a camping trailer is a vehicle submitted to vibrations, dust, and variations in temperature
( like an Aircraft)
It becomes imperative that ALL connections are done correctly, sealed and protected with correct
fuse sizes or breakers. Wiring on an RV is not a school project on a plywood board !
refer to the NFPA 1192 and the ANSI/RVIA for low voltage wiring practice.

Now comes the debate: Crimping or soldering for DC terminations :

I have been sr. Specialist & Engineer on variety of complex Aircraft electrical systems and involved with other engineers for 30 years and the same rule applies for vehicles on the roads. ( anything with wheels !)

The answer is clear: CRIMPING is the way to go !

Don’t let a dealer or amateurs getting you into this debate, get the guideline from the professionals.

TERMINALS:

WAGO terminals , Marine type Crimp-Shrink terminals , and solder-seals terminals are acceptable.
But verify quality:

For many solder-seals terminal mfg, it takes high temp. from a heat gun to get the solder ring to melt, to get it melted it can take up to 2min.++ and take another 2min to cool off and complete the connection.
This is a sign that your heat-gun is not strong enough or the Solder seal is low quality.

On a vehicle do NOT use WireNuts on any wiring !
( it is acceptable for residential 120V-AC applications, as your house does not move…) 

TERMINAL REVIEW: GalvinPower: https://www.galvinpower.org/best-butt-connectors/ 

WAGO Terminals: With: Mike Sokol 

 SOLDERING:

 Note:
Manual SOLDERING:
Correct durable soldering needs to be done with proper led mixture/formulation, temperature, oxygen free, and without Flux overflow. This involve a technic that requires practice , pre-solder and tin the wires, and is mostly done on PCB, and internal terminals.

( I have learned this at SPAR Aerospace)

 CRIMPING GUIDE:

  Crimping requires the correct terminals (Wire shrink Butt type) and the correct crimp tool for the job.

See Crimp Guide:

 CRIMP & SOLDER PROS & CONS  

 Pros & Cons !

 ANSI RVIA Standard

 TRAILER WIRING:

 The information is provided for educational and trouble shoot purpose.

There are several standards for trailer wiring, and if you search, you’ll find a different Trailer Wiring Diagram for each and as per the manufacturer.

Each standard has it’s different purpose, if you rebuilt your RV, so please don’t just make it up as you go, don’t change the original manufacturer RV wiring design.
They are wired as per NFPA-1192, and CSA Z240 standard.

For the 7 pin connector you will find 3 standards:

• the Travel trailer wiring/color code
• Commercial/agriculture wiring/color code.
• Utility/cargo trailer,
See diagram.

Most Trailers are equipped with:
• Tail/running lights
• R-L signal lights/brakes lights
• Backup lights
• Electric brakes

Trailer lights are installed & wired as per TRansport Canada guideline.

 TYPICAL WIRING

 7 way trailer plug:

 7 PIN PLUGS

 BRAKES:

 Throughout Canada and the U.S. there are varying laws in place regarding towing practices depending on the Province or State. Since most RV's and Campers travel over several States / Provinces, it is always safest to go with the average to stringent laws.

Contact your Recreation Vehicle Dealer Association in your Province or State for more information.

Independent braking system is required in each weight bearing wheel where gross weight (GVWR) exceeds 1,300 kg (2,867 Ibs).
Breakaway brakes are required on all trailers 1,360 kg (3,000 Ibs) and over.

Also Brakes are required if the trailer and its load weigh more than 50% of the licensed weight of the vehicle towing it.

Electric brakes are activated and controlled by the Trailer Brakes controller.
That can be added as a separate module (Amazon) or is integral part of the towing vehicule.

 TYPICAL CONTROLER MODULE

 BRAKES CONTROLER WIRING:

 VEHICLE TOW WEIGHT

This is  the  most  popular question amongs  campers:   how much can I tow  with my  pickup ?

 
Understanding your vehicle’s towing capacity rating is critical to choosing the right RV/travel trailer  for you and your family. Towing your next trailer  safely on the road  will depend on having the right tow vehicle and trailer combination. Use my  Calculator and Guide  to help find your vehicle's towing capacity .
Also note  pulling  a  trailer is  one  thing, but   safely   STOPPING  your vehicle is another.
Make sure  your  braking  system is  well within  specs.
Double check  your  setup by getting  real  weight values  from  a  Truck Stop balance and  records your numbers. 

 Your vehicle's max towing capacity includes:
* passenger weight, in your vehicle
* added accessories,
* any current liquids in tanks, and propane
* All cargo: food, clothes, chairs, grills, tents, tools, etc..

NEVER LOAD YOUR  VEHICLE/TRAILER  ABOVE THE GUIDELINE,
* GVWR :  Total Weight including the  above items ( Vehicle, TRailer)
* GCWR :  Total Weight of your  vehicle and trailer  combined (hitched)
* Vehicle Payload:  Total weight in  your  pickup Box and passengers (and 15% of your Fiftwheel GVWR)
* Hitch Max load :  Max weight  your  hitch can support ( see your  hitch Class)
* GAWR :   Max  weight on Axle
* Tire Max weight rating (see tire markings)

For purposes of Find an RV I can Tow, I”ve allowed 1000 lbs for RVs over 8000 lbs, 750 lbs for RVs under 8000 lbs, and 500 lbs for RVs under 5000 lbs for average Cargo Weight.
It  is strongly  suggested to  alow a  10% margin for safety. 

 You are responsible to operate your vehicle and any RV/Trailer you tow.

 TOW WEIGHT GUIDE

 TERMS & DEFINITIONS